So, like, I was on the Tube this afternoon, y'know? And there were these, like, three American college girls sitting opposite me? And they were all, like, "Dude, what are you doing for the Fourth of July?"
"I don't know, what do you think people do here?
"Like, are you gonna get hammered?"
"Like, I don't think people get hammered here on the Fourth."
"No way, people drink here."
"I'm gonna wear red, white and blue. With stars."
"I'm gonna wear my 'Everybody Loves An American Girl' t-shirt. My mom told me people here would like me because I don't like Bush."
I was, like, so off the train at that point.
I've been in London two years now. I'm slowly realizing that my reactions to conversations like the above are far more British than American. For one, you don't talk on the Tube. You just don't. In the beginning I thought it was anti-social. Now I recognize it for the sanity-saving measure that it is.
First, Tube trains are cramped. They are a Mini Cooper to the New York subway cars' Chevy Suburban. The less reminder that you are semi-hurtling through dark, dank, rat-infested tunnels in a sardine can packed with other grumpy humans, the better.
Second, London is a loud, noisy place. The streets are full of horns, sirens, loud motors and the occasional jack hammer. The Tube creaks, groans and clacks. Conversation is just another assault on the eardrums. We don't need it, thank you very much.
Third, I've come to the conclusion that the much vaunted British politeness is basically just leaving other people the hell alone. No one is going to interrupt you, or hinder you, or get in your way. In return, they don't want to be bothered, either. In America, if you strike up a conversation in a public place where others can hear you, others may very well join in the conversation. Or even start up a new conversation, stranger to stranger. No way, Jose, in the UK. You don't speak unless spoken to, and you don't speak in tones loud enough for others to hear in public (unless, of course, you want to be overheard. The flip slide of British politeness is passive aggressiveness). So in the UK, it's just the polite thing to stay quiet, or keep your voice down.
Therefore, the only people who talk on the Tube are either 1) drunk or 2) tourists. Well, or 3) passive aggressive.
I'm not really trying to rip on the college girls, although, like, y'know, people wonder why Americans have such a bad rep abroad? Exhibit A. Don't talk about Fourth of July like it's a national holiday outside of the US. And while the Brits are not all that sensitive about Fourth of July - it was over 200 years ago, after all, it's not like they lost World War II or anything important - it does seem the height of, well, neener-neenerism to want to rub the losers' faces in it.
Oh well. I did enjoy being in the company of the girls, so fresh faced and clean-scrubbed and slightly overfed in that American way. London girls that age look a bit hard to my eyes. Their style idols are the footballers' (i.e. Team England soccer players) WAGs (Wives And Girlfriends). Victoria Beckham is their style queen, all anoxeric jutting angles and bug-eyed sunglasses and George Hamilton Mystic Tan and very expensive clothing that looks cheap (in a $2 streetwalker sense, not Target chic sense). (Can you tell I'm not a Posh - or Coleen - fan?) You can identify a London girl by her exposed bra straps and ceramic ironed hair and flashy make-up. Not there's anything wrong with any of it. It's a look. But it was...homey...to be in the presence of girls who wore make-up to accentuate, not drown, their features; whose shirts came down over their waistbands; whose skin glowed from the sun, not from the tanning bed or the bottle.
2006-06-12
Summertime (and the living is HOT)
I'm beginning to understand the English obsession with weather.
Polite conversation here centers on current meteorological conditions. Whereas in LA one might open with "How about them Dodgers?" or "Did you get caught in that SigAlert on the 405?," in London small talk consists of how bright the sky is or how grey the clouds.
It's taken me a while to adjust. Particularly as my usual small talk fallback in LA - "What a cute purse/pair of shoes/necklace/shirt!" - feels rather, well, taboo here. One just doesn't discuss the accessories of others. Perhaps it is a comment on how shallow, consumerist and focused on appearances my former hometown can be, where females (and not a few men) regularly bond over purchases from Bloomies. And truth to tell, life in London, free from the pressure to look like an ad layout for Anthropologie or J. Crew or Barney's New York, is quite refreshing. But I still felt conversationally hamstrung - until I got the hang of studying the BBC's weather webpage every morning. Now I have proper conversation topics and can get through the morning "how goes it"'s with ease.
And the current topic occupying our chat? It's HOT. Over 80 degrees Fahrenheit hot.
Wait! I hear you say. Aren't you from California? Southern California, to be precise? Isn't 80 degree weather, like, y'know, normal everyday temperature for you?
Well, yes and no. First, I lived and (for most of my adult life) worked on the Westside. Ocean breezes kept most summer days a temperate 75 or so. And on the days when the breezes came from the desert and baked the city into triple digits or more, you could always look forward to nightfall and the heat dissipating with the sunset. LA is arid, with low humidity, which means no moisture to trap the day's heat.
And LA is also a young city, built up primarily after World War II as the defense industry and the film community alike moved in to take advantage of said weather. Therefore, most buildings are familiar with the concept of air conditioning. Central air, even, not just those units that make walking underneath windows in New York City in summer such an adventure.
London, not so much on the air conditioning. The Tube - see last year's blog entries of talk about how Dante-ish the Tube gets in summer. Busses - why give them windows that open if you aren't going to use them? Stores - hit or miss, mostly miss. We joked this weekend that we wanted to move into our local M&S Simply Foods, simply because it had the strongest A/C we'd felt all weekend. Our flat - oh please. Let's be glad the heat works in winter and leave it at that.
It was gorgeous this past Saturday. The sky was deep blue, perfect and pure, not one cloud to mar it. The light was hard and bright. The leaves on the trees, past their chartreuse first growth and now a darker kelly green, threw jagged shadows on the sidewalks. We walked through all four Central London parks - Kensington, Hyde, Green and St James's - on our way to Convent Garden to grab lunch. The World Cup just started and the streets were deserted as people gathered at home or in dark pubs to match the England-Paraguay match. We could follow the game by the noises we heard as we walked by the various pubs. It felt odd to be in the West End on a beautiful summer day with few fellow pedestrians in sight, but it was lovely to almost have the city to ourselves. And Covent Garden itself was as crowded as ever.
We lived mostly outside this weekend, sticking to shade and following the breeze, as inside the flat it was a sticky, humid oven. This is leading to a crisis in my marriage: Do we sleep with the curtains open and the fan on, to bring the somewhat cooler night air into our second (or first, if you are British) floor bedroom; or do we turn off the fan and close the curtains as the sun comes up at 4:43 a.m. and hits us square in our sleeping faces? Decisions, decisions...
Polite conversation here centers on current meteorological conditions. Whereas in LA one might open with "How about them Dodgers?" or "Did you get caught in that SigAlert on the 405?," in London small talk consists of how bright the sky is or how grey the clouds.
It's taken me a while to adjust. Particularly as my usual small talk fallback in LA - "What a cute purse/pair of shoes/necklace/shirt!" - feels rather, well, taboo here. One just doesn't discuss the accessories of others. Perhaps it is a comment on how shallow, consumerist and focused on appearances my former hometown can be, where females (and not a few men) regularly bond over purchases from Bloomies. And truth to tell, life in London, free from the pressure to look like an ad layout for Anthropologie or J. Crew or Barney's New York, is quite refreshing. But I still felt conversationally hamstrung - until I got the hang of studying the BBC's weather webpage every morning. Now I have proper conversation topics and can get through the morning "how goes it"'s with ease.
And the current topic occupying our chat? It's HOT. Over 80 degrees Fahrenheit hot.
Wait! I hear you say. Aren't you from California? Southern California, to be precise? Isn't 80 degree weather, like, y'know, normal everyday temperature for you?
Well, yes and no. First, I lived and (for most of my adult life) worked on the Westside. Ocean breezes kept most summer days a temperate 75 or so. And on the days when the breezes came from the desert and baked the city into triple digits or more, you could always look forward to nightfall and the heat dissipating with the sunset. LA is arid, with low humidity, which means no moisture to trap the day's heat.
And LA is also a young city, built up primarily after World War II as the defense industry and the film community alike moved in to take advantage of said weather. Therefore, most buildings are familiar with the concept of air conditioning. Central air, even, not just those units that make walking underneath windows in New York City in summer such an adventure.
London, not so much on the air conditioning. The Tube - see last year's blog entries of talk about how Dante-ish the Tube gets in summer. Busses - why give them windows that open if you aren't going to use them? Stores - hit or miss, mostly miss. We joked this weekend that we wanted to move into our local M&S Simply Foods, simply because it had the strongest A/C we'd felt all weekend. Our flat - oh please. Let's be glad the heat works in winter and leave it at that.
It was gorgeous this past Saturday. The sky was deep blue, perfect and pure, not one cloud to mar it. The light was hard and bright. The leaves on the trees, past their chartreuse first growth and now a darker kelly green, threw jagged shadows on the sidewalks. We walked through all four Central London parks - Kensington, Hyde, Green and St James's - on our way to Convent Garden to grab lunch. The World Cup just started and the streets were deserted as people gathered at home or in dark pubs to match the England-Paraguay match. We could follow the game by the noises we heard as we walked by the various pubs. It felt odd to be in the West End on a beautiful summer day with few fellow pedestrians in sight, but it was lovely to almost have the city to ourselves. And Covent Garden itself was as crowded as ever.
We lived mostly outside this weekend, sticking to shade and following the breeze, as inside the flat it was a sticky, humid oven. This is leading to a crisis in my marriage: Do we sleep with the curtains open and the fan on, to bring the somewhat cooler night air into our second (or first, if you are British) floor bedroom; or do we turn off the fan and close the curtains as the sun comes up at 4:43 a.m. and hits us square in our sleeping faces? Decisions, decisions...
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